Angkor Thom (Angkor: a derivative of the Sanksrit word Nagara or city; Thom: Great)  – literally the Great City or the Big City – was at the peak of its glory almost a thousand years ago, and was the capital of the Angkor empire, aka the Khmer empire. It began life as a Hindu Kingdom, in the 8th century. Became Buddhist a few centuries later (2-3), before falling, and disappearing from living memory. This particular city – and there a complex of overlapping cities around, all from different eras, was built by King Jayavarman VII in the 12th century. As per Britanica

Angkor was a centre for administration and for the worship of a divine monarch. The city was planned and constructed on the basis of religious and political conceptions imported from India and adapted to local traditions. From the time of Yashovarman I, who named the city Yashodharapura, Angkor was conceived as a symbolic universe structured according to the model provided by traditional Indian (Hindu) cosmology. The city was oriented around a central mountain or pyramid temple (symbolic of Mount Meru, home of the gods) that was an architectural adaptation and completion of the one natural hill in the area, the Phnom Bakheng. In a similar manner, the central structure of each temple reflected the position of Mount Meru. The outer walls of each temple recalled the mountains that were believed to ring the edge of the cosmos, or world. The vast system of reservoirs, canals, and moats, which was one of the most notable features of Angkor, served primarily as a means of water control and rice irrigation, although it also represented the waters of the cosmos.

At the centre of the Angkor Thom city complex is the great temple of Bayon. While earlier kings were Shaivites or Vaishnavites, this King was Buddhist, and the temple is dedicated to the glory of Buddha. There are small mini temples too -with other gods, mostly Hindu gods.

 

This is a tiny little temple – i confess i don’t know which God – but the gopuram (or tower) was fascinating

The walls have exquisitely carved. Some tell stories, others record history. And, as much else in the region, the two have gotten intermingled.

The lower terraces, in Angkor Thom, that lead up to the top, are designed with walkways and paths, and chambers. Since this was the capital city, some of these could be residential, while the other official. The Royal Palace area – was both residential and administrative.

Urban planning in Angkor Thom is a lot better than that found in modern states. Clean lines, roads and paths that connected one area with another. Shade for pedestrians. Sculpted gardens

As you get out of the royal complex, there is the terrace of elephants.

Smack at the centre of the Angkor Thom complex lies a A vast Bayon Temple, and all roads lead to it. The temple was originally called Jayagiri or the victorious mountain. The French renamed it Bayon after the Banyan (Bodhi) tree under which the Buddha achieved enlightenment. The Temple has over 200 smiling Buddha faces peering down at you, mostly atop rock towers. These are Buddha as the Avalokiteshvara – lord of the worlds.

There are multiple towers with Buddha faces. It is believed that the Great King Jayavarman VII was the inspiration for the faces. They looked less like the Buddha, and more like the king.

When you walk up to the temple, you know why it is called Jayagiri – it is a steep climb. and, in the sultry heat of the day, it feels energy sapping. Apparently, the place was designed so that devotees understand the effort it takes to meet god. By the time you have reached the top, it feels like you have climbed a mountain, and are ready to meet God. From the ground level, the top of the temple looks closer than it is. it is when you begin walking, you realise how many levels up, you need to walk.

And, then when you have reached this, you realise there is one more temple to climb. The Baphuon temple is a steep vertical climb up. And, trust me, it is easier to climb up than it is to climb down. This temple is built slightly later – and dedicated to the lord of the universe – Shiva. Later kings converted it into a Buddhist temple. This ping pong from Hinduism to Buddhism to Hinduism to Buddhism has been a recurring element in the history of the Khmer empire. And, accounts for some of the damage to the idols.

 

In the vast complex grounds you will notice many of these structures. Called  Prasat Suor Prat, they are towers.

The one thought that struck me while walking in the grounds – and this strikes me everytime i visit a place with a thriving civilisation, that is now gone. The fragility of civilisation. How easy it is for the veneer of civilisation to be lost, and for people to revert to more primitive ways of living.

And, i am guessing that one reason for that, was the control of education, and keeping knowledge in the hands of the few. Maybe the modern era is better, and may survive longer, because education has been seemingly liberated. While we may be able to pass on data, and science to the next generation, i wonder whether stories, heroes, legends and myths will survive.

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If you are planning to visit, and you love history and ancient ruins, i would suggest two trips. the first to absorb the location and it’s scale. The second to absorb the art and architecture. Maybe even three times.

And, if you are visiting the Angkor complexes, i would suggest get into training – climbing up stairs in a humid city like Mumbai will help. It is a lot of uneven walking. But, totally worth it.